FAQS-Fruits |
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Rejuvenating Neglected Orchard
Do Strawberries Fruit The First Year?
Small, Crumbly Raspberries : "The raspberries on one end of our patch are small and crumbly, although the foliage appeared to be normal. The other end of the patch receives the same light, soil, and water, and these berries are large and juicy like normal. Should I destroy the canes with small berries? What could it be, and is it contagious?"
"It sounds like your patch is suffering from the aptly named crumbly berry virus, or perhaps another similar virus. Raspberries are especially prone to viral diseases, which is why it is very important to purchase certified virus-free stock when planting a new patch. Crumbly berry disease is caused by the tomato ringspot virus and spread by the dagger nematode. Plants may appear normal but will produce small fruit that falls apart when picked. This is a result of the failure of some of the drupelets in the berry to develop. This virus has a wide host range including many weeds, such as dandelion. Unlike some viruses, the organism can live for years in dead plant material, so when you remove the infected canes, get as much of the roots, crown, and canes as you can and burn or bury them. The virus is spread by aphids, so if you noticed these pests on your healthy canes last year, be aware that they may have infected more of your patch. As a safeguard, you can order new, disease-free stock this year and plant it at least 200 yards from your current patch, so you won't have a break in harvest if your current patch is affected this year."
Poor Apple Production : "I have 3 apple trees that are 6 to 8 years old. However, I have gotten very few apples, and last year there were very few blossoms. What am I doing wrong?"
"Since the trees didn't have blossoms, one explanation could be over-fertilizing. Heavy feeding with a high-nitrogen fertilizer can result in lots of vegetative growth at the expense of flowers and fruit. Where are your apple trees located? Apples set fruit best in a location with south or southeast exposure, ideally, on a slight slope. The slope helps cold air drain away, eliminating ""frost pockets."" (In the spring, when buds are being formed, they get zapped by the frost that collects in these cold spots.) Some apples varieties tend to bear in alternate years; you'll get a big crop one year, and very little fruit the next year. Proper annual pruning encourages a more consistent crop. Note also that some apples, especially those on standard (non-dwarfing) rootstocks can take 6 to 7 years before they bear a respectable crop."
Pollination of Peaches : "I planted one dwarf peach tree two years ago. I recently read that you should plant two different apple varieties for cross-pollination, to get good fruit production. Do I need to plant a second variety of peaches?"
"You have nothing to worry about. While it's true that many tree fruits do require a pollinator tree of a different variety (apples and cherries, for example), most peach trees are self-fruitful. Enjoy those homegrown peaches!"
Pruning Orange Trees : "I have an orange tree that's never been pruned and the branches are hanging on the ground. It produces huge amounts of fruit that are small and tart. There are a lot of dead branches on the inside of the tree. I have watered hoping that would make the fruit sweeter, but it didn't. How should I prune this tree, and how can I make the fruit sweeter?"
"There are many kinds of citrus trees, some produce sweeter fruits than others. You may very well have one of the sour orange trees and there's nothing you can do to make the oranges sweeter tasting. Orange trees usually produce fruit at the ends of branches, so yours seems to be following its natural growth habit. You can safely trim your tree back to improve its shape. You may get a smaller fruit crop, but your tree will recover within a season and begin producing heavily again. Start by removing all of the dead branches and limbs, then cut the healthy branches back by about a third. If you remove too much growth, you'll open up the bark and limbs to more sunshine than they're used to and they may become sunburned. Try to reshape your tree over two or three years, rather than all at once. Orange trees grow vigorously, so once you rehabilitate it, be sure to prune it back annually."
Pruning New Canes on Brambles : “Can one prune back my brambles in late summer? The canes are getting quite long. Will this take away from fruit production next year?”
"In general, branched canes that have borne fruit already can be cut out once the berries have been picked. Any dead canes should also be pruned out. Then thin the plants leaving only the biggest new canes. They will be the most productive next year. Try to end up with about 6 or 8 canes per clump with the canes spaced about 6 inches apart. Finally, no matter which kind(s) you are growing, be sure to remove and destroy the prunings when you are done."
Propagating Blueberries : “I have a blueberry bush that produces the best berries. I've forgotten the name and I'd like to propagate more of this variety. What's the best way?”
"A simple way to propagate blueberry bushes is to mound layer a few of the new basal shoots. Here's how: Next spring, cut out one or two old canes from the mother blueberry plant, which will stimulate the bush to send up some new shoots. As the shoots grow, mound soil over them so only one inch of each shoot is above ground. Continue mounding it up as the shoot grows until the soil is 6 to 8 inches high. In September, gently remove the soil from the shoots by rinsing the mound with water, taking care not to damage any of the new roots that have sprouted along the covered stem. Cut off a new shoot below where the roots have formed and plant the new blueberry bush in its permanent location."
Transplanting Blueberries : "I would like to move my blueberry bushes. When is the best time to do this? In the spring, while they are still dormant, or in the fall, after the fruit is harvested?"
"The plants should be dormant when transplanted. In mild climates, you can move them in either in early spring or fall, after they've dropped their leaves. In cold regions, move them in the spring, before bud break, so they'll have the summer to get established before having to face the harsh winter weather. First, do your annual maintenance pruning. Next, make sure the new planting site is sunny with well-drained, moisture-retentive, acidic soil (pH 4.5-5). If the soil isn't this acidic, mix sphagnum peat moss into the backfill from the planting holes. Water them well after transplanting and through this coming year while their roots rejuvenate."
Rejuvenating Neglected Orchard : "I just bought an old house with two equally old apple trees, an old pear tree, and an out-of-control grape vine. These trees and vines probably have not been pruned in more than ten years. Can I prune these over the next few years to restore health and order, or should I give up and start with new plants?"
"It depends on what you're hoping to achieve. It is possible to rejuvenate old trees with a program of pruning, soil enrichment, and pest management. On the other hand, if you are hoping for a predictable harvest, you may be better off starting over with new trees. If you decide to keep your venerable old trees, plan to prune over a three year period. Do the pruning in late winter or very early spring. You can safely prune out up to a quarter of the crown of your tree; any more than that and you will simply encourage a flush of new growth. You can prune your old grape vines right back to the ground; the roots will send up new shoots. Choose 3 of the most vigorous shoots to grow the first year; the following year, cut back to the one best shoot and keep that one properly pruned each year. There are many helpful reference books with detailed diagrams on pruning."
Espaliers and Pear Trees : “What do I need to make a pear tree into an espalier?”
"Pear trees (and apple trees, too) are good candidates for espaliers. All you need is a fence or a wall for the plant to grow against, some fabric to tie the branches in place, and some sharp pruners. It's a 4 to 5 year process to get the basic framework of your espalier completed, but once that's done it's just a matter of rubbing out buds and pruning off misplaced branches. The best way to proceed is to find a book with illustrated steps."
Do Strawberries Fruit The First Year? : “Do strawberries (June-bearing) fruit the first year? I'm planning on planting a large patch for jam-making this summer.”
"It's best not to let strawberries produce fruit the first year. Instead, remove the blossoms as soon as they form. The reason for this is to enable the plants to become well established for better production in subsequent years."
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