FAQS-Lawns |
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Using Grass Clippings as Mulch
Searching for Shade-Tolerant Grass
Lawn is Hard Underfoot : "My lawn looks fairly healthy but is very hard under foot. Would aerating help?"
"If your soil is composed of compacted clay, it will feel quite hard. Another factor is the type of grass; some forms a denser mat than others. If compaction is the problem, aerating will definitely help loosen the soil and allow water and air to reach the grass roots, which will improve growth. You can go a step further and sprinkle screened compost on your lawn with a fertilizer spreader after you aerate, which will encourage the presence of earthworms and other organisms that help aerate and loosen the soil. Avoid using chemical weed killers because they can harm soil life. Mow high to reduce weed growth, and leave grass clippings on the lawn to contribute organic matter and improve the health of your lawn."
Grubs and Skunks Damage Lawn : “I sodded my lawn 2 years ago and was delighted with the results the first year. Last year I began to lose portions of the sodded area for no apparent reason. Toward the end of the summer I began to notice a skunk was visiting nightly and digging in the area of the sod which had gone brown. Is it possible this is actually a grub problem? If so what can I do to prevent them and get the grass growing again?”
"It could very well be that grubs are causing problems in your lawn. The problem is compounded by the fact that skunks love grubs and will dig for them mercilessly. Beneficial nematodes will give quick control of the grubs. These microscopic worm-like creatures parasitize the grubs in the lawn helping in two ways...no grubs chewing on your lawn, no skunks digging for grubs. Beneficial nematodes won't live year to year, so you'll need to reapply annually. Best of luck!"
Moss in the Lawn : "I live in the Pacific Northwest and as a result have a great deal of moss in my lawn. My question is: Should I treat the lawn with a moss killer and then use a dethatcher, or should I skip the moss and go directly to using a dethatching maching? After I get the moss out of the lawn, what is the best way to prevent it from coming back?"
"Moss thrives when conditions favor its growth. Too much shade, compacted soil, poor fertility, poor drainage, and low pH all contribute to moss in lawns. If you can correct all (or most) of these problems, you'll have less moss in the lawn. I'd skip the moss killer. It will kill the moss, but you'll need to change conditions or it will come right back. Go ahead and dethatch, then rake up all the dead stolons along with the moss. Reseed any bare areas. Then put your lawn on a regular feeding schedule, mow frequently, and water as needed. These steps will help the grass grow lush and thick enough to crowd out any moss. Washington State University recommends fertilizing in April, June, September, and the first week of December with a 3-1-2 ratio of complete fertilizer (21-7-14 is a good choice). You may want to have the soil tested because it is likely your soil pH is too low. If that proves true, you'll be advised to add lime. Fall is the best time add lime, but anytime is okay. Following the above guidelines for a healthy lawn should greatly reduce the amount of moss you find in your yard."
Edging Flower Beds : “Is there a tool or machine I could rent or buy that would dig a trough between my yard and flower beds? I've seen very straight neat barriers in others yards and it doesn't look like it was done by hand. I also don't want to dig by hand. I don't know what to ask for at a store or rental place.”
"Edging by hand can be a lot of work, especially if your soil is dense and compacted, and the sod very tough, so I don't blame you for not wanting to do it! The tool you're looking for is a lawn edger. Some small tillers come with edger attachments, making them handy for both tilling soil and tidying beds. Once you have created the clean edge, you can install edging material that creates a barrier between your lawn and flower beds.”
Keeping Lawn Green Year Round : "I live in Tennesse. What type of grass is there that stays green all year round. Right now my lawn is Bermuda grass, and it turns brown in the fall."
"Turf grasses are divided into two categories: warm and cool season grasses. Warm season grasses do well where summers are hot, but, as you've noticed, they go dormant when the temperatures cool. There's no grass I know of that will stay green year round (except Astroturf!), so the solution is to overseed your lawn sometime in September or October with an annual, cool-season grass, such as annual ryegrass or a fine fescue. Dethatch and aerate the lawn first, then reseed, and top-dress with compost. When weather warms in spring, dethatch and aerate again to stimulate the Bermuda to get growing. A quicker method is to ""scalp"" the lawn by using a heavy duty reel mower (you can rent them). This will remove most of the Bermuda tops. Rake up the debris, sow your seed, topdress, water and fertilize. For the best cool-season turf variety in your region, contact your County Master Gardeners or ask a lawn care professional."
Seed vs. Sod for Small Area : "We have an area approximately 20 x 30 feet (at most) that is currently covered with pea gravel. We'd like to plant a lawn here and don't know if we should seed it or buy sod. The gravel is about an inch deep over black plastic sheeting. We'll probably need to build the soil from scratch, or at least add substantially to what's there. Also, the area is somewhat shady. We're looking for the fastest results (without having the expenses get too high since we'll only be in this house for a few years). Any suggestions for where to dispose of the gravel?"
"In general sod is used for more immediate gratification, and seed is used when a less expensive method of starting a lawn is more appropriate. For many newly built homes for example, the front yard is sodded while the back yard is merely seeded. The results can be as good several years down the road, but it does take time to establish a good healthy lawn. For information about starting and maintaining a successful new lawn, you might want to look at a book or two about lawn care. One I particularly like because it is very straightforward is ""Lawn Care for Dummies"" by Lance Walheim, ISBN 0-7645-5077-2, Dummy Press. In it you will find discussions of the benefits of seed vs. sod and the mechanics of using both, along with detailed notes on soil preparation and seasonal lawn maintenance. Whether you are using sod or seed, lawn grasses do best in a soil that is loose and rich in organic matter; it should also be moist yet well drained. I suspect there may be some soil problems related to the plastic and gravel. If the area was used for parking or other heavy traffic, the soil may be extremely compacted and in need of deep aeration. Plastic also tends to limit air and water in the soil, so you will really have to pay attention to aerating, rebuilding and feeding it by adding organic matter. There may also have been some sort of ""problem"" with the area which caused someone to apply the gravel -- after looking at a book about lawn care you may be able to determine whether or not the area is actually well suited to lawn to begin with. Removing gravel is a chore, but you will need to do it unless it is very fine -- gravel will jam the tines on many tillers and you will probably need a tiller to prepare the planting area. The best way I know of is to rake and shovel it up by hand. Take your time -- it's heavy work! Once the gravel is up you can simply pull away the plastic. Remove the plastic even if you decide to work the gravel into the soil. Another consideration on whether or not to remove the gravel completely (or dig it into the soil) will be the texture of the existing soil and how well it drains. You will need to run some basic soil tests to see what the soil does and does not need in the way of amendments. Your County Extension should be able to help you with the tests and interpreting the results. They should also be able to suggest grass seed varieties best suited to your area. A final note, most grasses need plenty of sun to grow well, so if your area is mainly shady you might want to consider using a groundcover rather than lawn. While more expensive initially than grass seed, groundcover is usually far less expensive to maintain over time."
Lawn Watering : "Should I water my lawn all year around?"
"Lawns do not need to be watered when the ground is frozen, or if it is already moist due to natural precipitation. Very often, little or no watering is needed in spring and fall since there is seasonal rain and the cooler temperatures help the soil stay moister longer naturally. Also, some gardeners do not water at all and instead allow their established lawns to go dormant during midsummer when natural rainfall is scarce. If you opt to water, you will need to water more often during the heat of the summer and especially during summer dry spells. To see if you need to water, dig down an inch or so and feel the soil. When you do need to water, water enough at a time that it soaks down about six inches. This will encourage your lawn to grow deep healthy roots that reach down where the soil naturally stays moister longer. For this reason, too, it is best to water deeply and less often rather than to provide a light sprinkling daily. The partial exception to this rule is with a newly planted lawn, which must be kept evenly moist while it is becoming established. Again, you will still need to check the soil to know if you need to water."
Lawn Needs Renovation : "Two years ago our front lawn was infested with grubs, and last year we had a drought. The lawn is hay-like and now is being overtaken by violets and miscellaneous weeds. The violets are nice, but I'd rather not have them take over the front lawn. What can I do to improve the lawn and keep the weeds under control, without starting over?"
"Most lawn failures can be traced to poor soil preparation at the very beginning, along with poor maintenance practices, and, in some cases, poorly selected lawn grass varieties. When a lawn is in truly bad shape, it can be preferable in the long run to start over from scratch. If you want to try to renovate the lawn, begin by having the soil tested to determine the pH and nutrient levels. Dig out as many weeds as you can, then spread a thin (1/4-inch) layer of compost over the entire lawn. Overseed with an appropriate lawn grass, keep the are watered, and hope for the best. Healthy grass will outcompete most weeds, so if you can get the sod in good shape, you'll go a long way toward controlling unwanted invaders."
Using Grass Clippings as Mulch : “Is it all right to use grass clippings from the lawn mower as mulch in the garden?”
"Grass clipping make a fine mulch. Just make sure the turf was not treated with a broadleaf weed control product as this can damage some sensitive garden plants. Also, don't apply fresh clippings in too thick a layer or they may rot and produce a foul smell. Instead, add thin layers every few days, allowing each layer to dry before adding another. Remember, however, that those grass clippings could be fertilzing your lawn as well, if you mow frequently and use a mulching mower.”
Mushooms in the Lawn : "Why are mushrooms growing in my lawn? How can they be elimated and prevented? We had a new lawn installed about five years ago. A large elm had been in the area but was taken down just before the lawn was installed.”
"Some mushrooms grow in decaying wood or tree roots under the soil surface, and others feed off grass roots, killing the turf. In either case, the only chemical-free way to control the mushrooms is to remove the mycelia (the "stem" of the mushroom body) from the soil. If rotting wood is the source of mushroom growth, remove it and the 2 inches of soil that surrounded the wood. If you have "fairy ring" fungi that grow in a circle, the fungus is feeding on your turf, and you'll have to remove the grass and 2 inches of surrounding soil as well. Excess moisture tends to encourage fairy rings, so water your lawn only as needed. There is no easy or inexpensive control of fairy ring fungi. The easiest strategy is to mask the effects by fertilizing the whole yard so that the impact of the nitrogen released by the fungi is not so visible. You could remove the sod within two feet of either side of the ring and replant with clean sod. But this seems a drastic and temporary solution to a minor issue. Another option is to sit back in wonder and amazement and enjoy the natural cycles of nature occurring in your yard as this beneficial fungi makes fertilizer from leaf litter right in front of your eyes!"
Lawn Watering Timing : "I'd like to know what time of the day is the best for watering my lawn; some people have told me I should water before the grass receives direct sunlight, others say that it's best to do it right after dusk. Can you advise me?"
"Early morning is the best time to water for several reasons. First of all, it conserves water. If you water mid-day, you'll lose a great deal of moisture to the sunshine. Second, it helps prevent disease. If you water in the evening, the lawn is wet all night, disease might get a foothold. Water thoroughly so the entire root zone gets wet, giving the grass plants a reserve of moisture to draw on when they get thirsty. If you apply just a little bit of water each day, the grass will grow roots only near the surface of the soil and will dry out easily during the heat of the summer.”
Lawn Alternatives : "My husband doesn't like to mow grass, but all our neighbors have it, so it doesn't seem appropriate to cover the property in green cement! We are thinking of planting Dwarf Mondo Grass on our lot. I've read that it's a good groundcover (esp. between stepping stones & around trees) but I don't know how much of it to plant so that it will take over the lawn, or whether that's even feasible. Will it grow under our Black Walnut tree? Does it come in 'seed' or will I have to buy a truckload of those little 4"" pots?"
"Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) only gets about 4-6 inches high and should be planted about that far apart in beds. However, if you are planting a large area, it will get expensive. You'll have to buy plants which cost $5 each. A less expensive idea maybe to look at other non-lawn alternatives. There are a number of seed mixes on the market that include a mixture of herbs, flowers, and low-growing grasses. These still look green, but take less mowing and are ""different"". Your county extension service should be able to offer you some regionally specific alternatives. Good luck!"
Clover in Lawn : "Last year we bought a new house and seeded for the first time. The grass has come through reasonably well, but in amongst the grass is lots of clover. How can I strenghen my grass and also get rid of the clover?"
"Clover is a common perennial weed throughout the country. Some folks love it; others like you wish it would just go peacefully into the night! When you buy your new seed, be sure to read the contents carefully. Often clover is included in grass seed. It produces it's own nitrogen which means it can thrive in lawns that are low in this nutrient. This is also why some people are happy for clover in the lawn. Nitrogen is one of your lawns greatest needs, and clover provides it -- free! You might consider using a fertilizer that includes a broad-leaf weed killers. Look and be sure the label says it is appropriate for ridding the lawn of clover.”
Overseeding Existing Lawn : "I put in a new lawn and in most areas the grass grew in thick and lush. But in several locations the grass is thin, and looking straight down, the soil is visible. What is the best way to overseed the thin areas without harming the grass in the area?"
"You can use a rake to rough the soil surface up a bit so the seeds can make good contact with the soil. If the spots are small, use a hand trowel. Then broadcast seeds over the soil, cover with a bit of compost or peat moss to help the seeds stay moist, and water well. Apply water once or twice a day to keep the seeds moist and they should sprout within a week. Raking might dislodge some existing grass plants, but the new seeds will take over the area and the existing grass should settle back down into the soil as soon as you water the area."
Searching for Shade-Tolerant Grass : "We can grow St. Augustine grass beautifully in the front yard where there is full sun, but not in the back where tall trees cast lots of shade. What type of grass will grow well in shade?"
"Unless you have at least 1/2 day of sun in your backyard, I would not even try to grow grass, but grow groundcovers and use mulch instead. One of the most shade tolerant grasses are the fescues, but seeing as you are in Louisiana, they probably won't grow well. Try groundcovers such as wild ginger, goutweed, ivy or pachysandra and mulch heavily traveled areas with bark mulch. Check local nurseries for the groundcovers mentioned as well as others that grow well in Louisiana."
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Lawns FAQs
