FAQS-Perennials |
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Starting a New Flowerbed : "How do I begin to prepare a new yard for some flowers and a garden? Do I need to dig up all the grass? Since there has been nothing planted there do I need to amend the soil?"
"Here's one method: Start by taking the garden hose out into the yard and laying it out in the shape you'd like your flower beds to be. Move it around until you have just the right shape, and then use a spade or shovel to cut through the turf, next to the hose. Then cut parallel lines in the turf about 12 inches apart. Firmly grasp one exposed end of turfgrass and pull it up. The roots should come right up if the soil is moist. Continue to pull and roll the strips of turf until the entire flower bed area is bare. (Pile the turf in an out-of-the-way place--it will form a rich compost!) Then spread about 4 inches of organic material such as compost, peat moss, leaf mold or aged manure over the area and till it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. That should give you a good base for almost any annual or perennial flower."
Planning Cut Flower Garden : "Can you recommend some annuals I can plant so I can have fresh cut flowers spring through fall?"
"There are numerous possibilities, and much depends on your own preferences. Some easy-to-grow annuals from seed for cut flowers include sunflowers, tithonia, zinnia, coreposis, cosmos, gaillardia, bachelor buttons, larkspur, snapdragons, asters, as well as pansies and Johnny-jump-ups for tiny bouquets. You might want to consider a wildflower mix, many of which provide a natural, "airy" feel to bouquets. Keep deadheading, or trimming off, spent blossoms to encourage the plant to continue producing flowers, rather than expending its energy on seed production. Consider planting some bulbs for spring bouquets, and remember that you can force some fruit trees branches to flower indoors in early spring. Many flowers also have attractive seedheads, which can be harvested throughout the fall and even into winter."
Flowers That Self Sow : "How do I find out which of my flowers will self-sow? Should I never pick the blooms? I would love my garden to ""naturalize"", so should I wait until a certain time to turn the soil to give the fallen seeds a chance to sprout?"
"Quite a number of flowers will readily self-sow, including annuals such as sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) and pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis), and perennials such as purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea), Virginia spiderworts (Tradescantia virginiana), gloriosa daisies (Rudbeckia hirta), and garden phlox (Phlox paniculata). Note, however, that subsequent generations of flowers may not be identical to the parents, especially if the parents are hybrids. If you want to increase your population of any particular flower, let the seedheads form on the plant and then pluck them off, open the seedpod, and sprinkle the seeds in the garden. If you want to renovate the garden, or till the soil, then collect the dry seedheads and store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark location over the winter months. In the spring, after you've prepared the soil, sprinkle the seeds where you want the plants to grow. To naturalize an area, you just need to be able to identify the baby plants so you don't mistake them for weeds and accidentally pull them out. Try to keep most of the spent flowers picked off during the early part of the summer or the plants will put their energy into producing seeds instead of producing more blooms. Let the very last flowers in the late summer become your source for seeds for the new plants. These end-of-the season seedheads are the ones you should harvest for sprinkling in the garden or saving for next spring."
Companion Flowers for Roses : "I have a rose bed, with three rose bushes spaced evenly apart. I filled the extra space with a mass of spring bulbs, but am wondering what complimentary summer annuals or perennials I can plant that will hide the dying bulb leaves, while still complementing my rose bushes."
"There are numerous possibilities and so much depends on what you like! For season-long bloom, you'll want annuals rather than perennials, but of course, they have to be replanted every year. Low growers such as alyssum and lobelia look great at the foot of the bushes and they have long bloom periods. Silvery foliage plants, such as sages and artemesias, and herbs can also look very attractive mixed with roses. Catmint (Nepeta faasenii) is a soft mounding perennial that has blue flowers in late spring/early summer. Lavender is another possibility."
Flowers Deer Avoid : "We live in upstate NY, and have several areas that would be great for naturalizing perennials and bulbs. Can you suggest plants that would be somewhat deer-resistant?"
"Deer are crafty, and if they're hungry, persistent. This is to say, take all "deer resistant" recommendations with a grain of salt because hungry deer will eat just about anything. That said, here are some choices that would work where you live: astilbe, bee balm, bleeding heart, columbine, coreopsis, crocosmia, crocus, daffodil, dahlia, foxglove, gloriosa daisy, hellebore, lupine, moss pink, pincushion flower, poppy, purple coneflower, and thyme. The only guaranteed solution to keeping deer at bay is a fence -- one tall enough that deer can't jump."
Attracting Beneficial Insects : "Can you give me some examples of beneficial insects, and what I can do to attract them to my garden?"
"Beneficial insects, including ladybeetles, lacewings, parasitic wasps and predaceous flies, feed on other insects, and can help keep pest insect populations in check. By including certain attractant plants in your garden, you'll offer an alternative food source for beneficials when pests are in short supply. Many of these plants are members of the carrot and daisy families; some good choices are angelica, anise, dill, fennel, yarrow and zinnias. Avoid using any broad-spectrum insecticides because these will harm beneficial as well as pest insects."
Bark Mulch vs. Stone Mulch : "I am trying to plan a garden for the front of my house. I am not crazy about the look of bark mulch and prefer the look of stone. I already have azalea bushes and some roses growing in the area. I also plan on planting some annuals. Is bark mulch better, if so why?"
"An organic mulch such as shredded bark or chopped rotted leaves or cocoa bean shells, etc. is preferred for one primary reason: an organic mulch will eventually break down and help feed the soil, an important ongoing benefit that rocks do not offer. A rock mulch will also reflect heat, and in a warm climate this can be harmful to the shrubs (azaleas are particularly sensitive) during midsummer, while an organic mulch is cooler. Rocks will work down into the soil during seasonal freeze thaw cycles so it is a good idea to use an air and water permeable weed fabric type barrier beneath the rocks. This will keep them from disappearing into the soil and will make it easier to remove them if anyone ever wants to. It will also go a long way toward preventing weed growth -- the rocks are a perfect weed seed bed. For this reason it should be raked and weeded occasionally. An organic mulch can also be raked occasionally and will need to be replenished from time to time."
Sunny Border Flowers : “Please suggest some perennials that I can place around a deck with sunny exposure. I would like color for as many seasons as possible.”
"Some perennial flowers that enjoy full sun include daylilies, purple coneflowers, black eyed Susans, nepeta, liatris and coreopsis. Plants with colored foliage such as heuchera, or with leaves that change through the season, such as the ornamental grasses, can provide all season interest. By adding tulips, daffodils and crocus varities that blossom at different times, you can enjoy extended spring bulb blossoms for two months. Mums, solidago, asters, and perovskia provide late season color. With such a wide pallette of forms and color to work with, the hard part will be deciding which of the many options to grow!"
Pruning Roses : "I have 5 rose bushes, 3 are tea and the other two are a type of wild rose. When is the best time of the year to cut them back, and how far? Should I fertilize them right after pruning? What about watering?"
"There are only a few things to remember about pruning roses: Blooms are produced on new growth, so retaining the old growth won't be beneficial to your rose bushes. You can safely cut hybrid tea roses to about two feet above the graft. Standard roses are usually grafted onto a 2-3 foot understock, so prune these about 18 inches above the graft. Try to prune some of the old canes out and leave three to five vigorous canes on each plant. Always use sharp pruners when cutting roses, and always cut to anoutside facing bud in the direction you want the plant to grow. If you remove all of the dead, crossing and rubbing canes, plus all of the long, unruly stems, you should end up with a sturdy, compact plant. Prune in January or February before the spring surge of growth and don't fertilize until the plants start putting out new growth. Rose buses should receive at least one inch of water per plant per week. Form a basin around the stem of the plant to hold water and then water deeply enough for the moisture to penetrate all through the root area."
Easy-Care Roses : "What is the easiest rose to grow? Are there any that do not need regular spraying with pesticides?"
"There are many disease resistant, hardy roses available, but none are ""bug-proof"" or "disease-proof." When shopping for roses, look for varieties described as "resistant to black spot," a notorious fungal disease of roses. Rugosa roses are a good choice. Though they can look a little more ""wild"" than tea roses, they tend to be more rugged and resistant to pests. Japanese beetles, rose chafers, and aphids are a few examples of rose-loving insects. Fortunately, there are organic, neem-based repellants available that have shown some success in keeping these critters at bay, so long as they are applied before the insects arrive. There are many different kinds of roses (floribundas, hybrid tea, shrub, miniature, etc.), so you'll want to do some ""window shopping"" to see what type fits your situation. Then search out a disease-resistant, hardy variety in that category."
Wind-Tolerant Perennials : "I want to landscape a part of my yard thats always very windy. I would prefer perennials and flowering shubs, but I am open to anything that will bloom and look nice."
"Lilacs, forsythia, rugosa rose, and spirea are wind-tolerant, blooming shrubs, juniper and mugo pine are wind-tolerant evergreens, and many of the silvery-leaved perennials and some of the herbs are also wind tolerant. You might try artemisia, achillea, Russian sage, thyme, lavender, nepeta and Berggarten sage. If possible, a temporary wind barrier can be helpful during the establishment period. A more permanent windbreak, such as a shrub hedge or a non-solid fence (picket), is very effective at softening the effects of wind. Such a structure protects to a distance of about eight times the height of the barrier."
Super Hardy Ground Cover : "I am looking for a super hardy ground cover that won't grow very high. I am renting a duplex that has NO grass or ground cover. The soil is very rocky and mostly shady. And I have a large dog who will be running about. Since I am renting, I don't want to spend a lot of effort (or tons of money) on this project. I am in zone 4."
"Although there are groundcovers that will work in your climate and soil, there are few that will hold up well to traffic, especially a dog. By far the toughest groundcover that will tolerate traffic is plain old grass. There are many dwarf fescues on the market that take very little care, including infrequent mowing. Here are a few other suggestions to get you started. Woody (these will be more expensive but more ""dog-tolerant""): Creeping cotoneaster, Euonymus fortunei Coloratus, Hall's honeysuckle, Pachysandra, Stephanandra, Creeping thyme, Indiancurrant, coralberry. Herbaceous: Goutweed, Wild ginger, Lily of the valley, Geranium (true geranium), Daylily, Lilyturf, Creeping potentilla, Barren strawberry."
Shade-Loving Plants : "I'm looking for hardy shade perennials. I already know about hosta, and I'm "hosta'd" to death!"
"The answer to your question depends on the extent of the shade and on the type of soil you have. Very few plants will really thrive in heavy deep shade all day. If this is your situation, you may have better luck with an evergreen vine such as English ivy (Hedera helix) and a limited assortment of hosta (they are available in many interesting patterns, sizes and shapes, as well as assorted shades of blue, green, gold and white), and ferns. With some dappled sun or some morning sun, you could add some lily-of-the-valley, sweet woodruff, Solomon's Seal, tricyrtis, astilbe and pulmonaria. You might also add in some evergreen azaleas or rhododendrons. All of these plants will do best if you prepare the soil with an ample amount of organic matter such as compost, rotted leaves, or well-aged stable manure and bedding. Azaleas and rhodies also absolutely require an acid soil."
Transplanting Daylilies : “When is the proper time to transplant daylilies?”
"You can divide and replant daylilies in the late fall or early spring months. They will grow in any type of soil, in full sun to part shade, and should be watered regularly during bloom time. Other than that, daylilies are fairly carefree plants that produce spectacular blooms."
Peonies That Lean : "I planted several peonies about 3 years ago. They're blooming this year, but the plants are leaning almost to the ground under the weight of the buds. Should I brace them or remove some buds? Did I plant them deep enough?"
"Peonies naturally tend to sprawl outward when heavy with flowers and foliage, and especially in rain, regardless of planting depth. Most gardeners will use a peony ring (a wire support set in place before the plant grows for the season) or a staking system to keep them from toppling. A series of stakes around the perimeter with string threaded spiderweb style between them will hold the plants upright. Disbudding will not keep them from leaning. One other possible cause for leaning is planting them in excessive shade, in which case they will lean toward the light source, whether or not they are supported."
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Perennials FAQs
