FAQS-Shrubs & Trees |
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Weeping Cherry No Longer Weeping
Planting Trees Next to House : “How close to a house foundation can trees be planted?”
"When planting trees of any kind, it is important to allow them ample room for root development (roots will extend about half again as far as the canopy of the mature tree). It's also important to give them adequate spacing for good air circulation, which is important in preventing disease. Tree roots can damage a foundation, so again it is wiser to plant the trees out in the open at a safe distance from both the foundation and any underground utilities. At a minimum, determine the mature width of the tree, and plant the tree at least 3/4 that distance from the house."
Shrubs to Attract Birds : "I'm planning on buying some elderberry and cotoneaster shrubs to attract birds to my yard. Could you give me some information on these two types of plants, and do they need to be cross-pollinated to produce berries? Also, what are other easy-care and fast growing plants that I attract birds?"
"Both elderberry and cotoneaster will produce berries on their own, providing there's ample insect activity when the plants are in bloom. Neither one needs a companion plant to develop berries. Birds frequent gardens where there is food, shelter, water and a certain degree of safety. If you provide these things by planting dense growing shrubs (for shelter and safety), plants that produce fruits for food, supplement their diets with seeds, and provide a birdbath for drinking and bathing, the birds should flock to your yard. You can tempt them even more with strawberries, chokeberry, serviceberry, privet, honeysuckle, holly, currant, and bayberry."
Choosing Landscape Trees : “I have a new yard with only one tree that the builder put in. I need to plant some trees for summer shade and to block winter winds. Suggestions?”
"You have lots of choices. For example, some good summer shade trees are Maple, Pin Oak and Hackberry, and for winter windbreak, consider Norway Spruce and Scotch Pine. To decide where to plant trees for most useful effect in terms of temperature and wind regulation, consult with a landscaper or a book on landscaping. Proper placement and initial care at planting can make all the difference. Before planting your trees, check soil conditions (drainage and soil type - i.e. clay, sand, gravel, etc.) and use this information to choose the species that will tolerate those conditions. Local nurseries are also great sources of information and plant material, and offer a place to take a look at the candidates."
Choosing Tree to Shade Deck : “We have just added a deck to the back of our home. The deck starts getting full sun about noon and is usually unbearably hot until just before sundown. I am planning to plant a tree on each side within 6-7 feet of the deck. Can you suggest some trees?”
"Along with trees, you might want to consider a trellis with deciduous climbing vines to help shade your deck. Some of the most well-behaved 'patio trees' (so named because they don't have many bad habits), include: paperbark maple, trident maple, dogwood, stewartia and crape myrtle. Acacia, laburnum (golden chain) and fruitless mulberry might be nice, too."
Tree Staking : "I bought a 5-gallon ornamental crabapple tree last week and have just planted it. It came with a bamboo stake tied to the trunk. Should I remove this stake and insert a larger one just outside the rootball, or should the tree be left unstaked and allowed to flex? I removed the top two ties, and the trunk veers off to one side about one fourth of the way down from the crown. Could the trunk eventually straighten itself, or should I retie it to the bamboo stake and hope that this will straighten it out? I'm not sure what to do."
"If your crabapple is leaning, you'll want to straighten it out while it's still young. Remove the small bamboo stake and drive 3 stakes into the ground just outside the rootball area, in a triangle pattern around the tree. Tie the trunk of the tree to each of the stakes so that it stands straight and tall. Check the ties every few months to make sure they're not digging into the bark of the tree trunk. You can safely leave the tree tied to the stakes for about a year, which will allow plenty of time for the roots to become established. Once your tree is firmly anchored in the ground you can remove the stakes and ties. After this treatment the trunk should not lean, but continue to grow straight."
Planting a Christmas Tree : “How do I plant a live Christmas tree after Christmas?”
"Ideally you should have dug and prepared the hole for the tree before the ground froze. If your ground is still not frozen, follow the steps below for digging the planting hole. When you have this tree inside, be sure that you keep the root ball moist so the tree doesn't dry out. Then, as soon as possible after Christmas, slowly acclimate the tree to the move to the great outdoors. Place your tree out into the garage, or some other cool, protected environment for a few days. Then put it in a very sheltered spot in the garden, where the soil is well drained, and where it will not be exposed to either wind or harsh sun. Protect it from heavy snow with burlap or a lath cage. Then cover the root ball with leaves or some other form of mulch to protect it from the elements. Leave it there until you can dig freely in the soil. Conifers prefer well drained, acidic soil. Dig the planting hole the same depth as the root ball, but wider--2 to 3 feet wide if the soil is good, bigger if the soil isn't great. The tree should be planted only as deep as it was in the nursery. Start by filling the planting hole with water and let it seep into the ground before putting the rootball in the hole. Cut any cord or wire off the burlap around the roots. After placing the rootball in the hole, make a few big slashes in the burlap to allow the roots to emerge. Fill in the hole with about half of the soil and water again. When the water has drained, put the rest of the soil in and pack it well. Water the tree as needed to keep the soil from drying out, but take care not to overwater. After planting, keep the tree top-dressed with plentiful leaf mulch. You may have heard that trees should be pruned at planting time, but that's not the case with your Christmas tree--pruning can stunt the growth of the newly planted tree. After a few years of constant growth, you can deal with pruning--but that's a whole new story!"
Trimming Japanese Maple : “We recently moved into a new house and there is a Japanese maple in the yard. It stands about 6' high and is hanging over the sidewalk. How and when should I trim it?"
“Generally it's safe to prune during the inactive or dormant period, ideally late winter to early spring, as long as the trees are not frozen. It's not a good idea to prune in late summer or early fall because pruning stimulates growth and the new tender shoots may be damaged in the upcoming colder months. However for every general rule there are exceptions, and maple is one of them. While it is not harmful to the tree to prune in late winter, maples are ""bleeders"" (the sap flows freely). All cuts during this time will ""bleed."" This is not harmful to the tree, but could create an untidy situation. Under such circumstances maples and other bleeders can be pruned in midsummer when the sap will not run. If you need to remove an entire limb, cut it cleanly back to the trunk of the tree. Otherwise, remove small side branches by cutting them close to a main branch. Pruning in this way will help your tree retain its natural shape."
Weeping Cherry No Longer Weeping : "I have a weeping cherry tree in front of my house. The tree is probably 8 to 10 feet tall and has a graft near the top of the trunk. When it was first planted two or three years ago the branches were all ""weeping"" downward. In the last year or so some branches have begun to grow straight UP! Any thoughts on why, and what I can do?"
"Generally the weeping cherry (Prunus subhirtella cv. Pendula) is a naturally pendulous tree. Sometimes weeping trees are created by grafting a weeping-type top onto a standard trunk. That sounds like your situation. If so, it's important to prune out any branches that sprout below the graft, so these non-weeping branches don't overtake the top part. Have you done any pruning in the past? If you prune back the weeping branches, this can cause the branches to stiffen and become more upright. Also, any heavy pruning can stimulate the tree to produce vigorous upright shoots called suckers. Prune weeping trees with a light hand, removing crowded and crossing branches and any damaged wood. They shouldn't need much other pruning, and should develop a natural weeping shape on their own."
Birch Tree Decline : "I bought and planted an ornamental weeping birch tree in late spring last year. The tree did well the first year, but this spring the buds that formed were green inside, but didn't open. What happened? Is the tree dead? "
"Insufficient water may have been a factor. Any newly planted tree needs attentive watering during dry spells for the first few years, in addition to regular watering the entire first season. Another possibility is that a late frost nipped the buds and the tree will leaf out again in time. If the tree is grafted, there is a chance that the graft is failing. There is also the possibility that there is a pest or disease at work, or that there was some accidental herbicide damage, or salt runoff from a walkway during the winter, or there are constricting support ties on the trunk, or any number of other unusual circumstances. I suggest that you do some detective work, and perhaps consult with the nursery where you bought the tree, to determine the cause of the trouble. In the meantime, make sure to keep the soil moist over the entire root zone, and water deeply when needed rather than providing a light daily sprinkling."
Bark Peeled from Tree : “A dog has peeled vertical strips of bark from our tree. Should we treat the wound with any type of protectant or just leave it alone? Do you think the tree will recover?”
"There is no product that helps trees to heal from this kind of injury...only time and the tree's natural healing ability will do the trick. If the tree is very young and has lost a lot of bark, or if bark was removed around the entire circumference, it may not survive. Loss of bark increases the chance of secondary infection by fungal disease. All you can do is provide the best possible conditions for the tree. Make sure it receives plenty of water during dry spells, and mulch the tree out to its dripline to minimize competition for nutrients and water."
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Shrubs & Trees FAQs
