FAQS-Vegetables |
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Cross Pollination of Squash and Gourds
Removing Suckers on Tomato Plants
Determinate and Indeterminate Tomatoes
Sprinklers or Drip in the Vegetable Garden
Getting the Heat out of Jalapeno Peppers
Rotating Crops : "I have a small raised-bed garden. What can I plant in the space where I had leeks last year? I know there are certain vegetables that should not follow others, and I do not want to risk a bad crop in my small garden."
"Rotation reduces the population of pests and diseases that concentrate in the soil, and can also be used to manage soil nutrients. Leeks are members of the onion family, so do not plant onions or garlic in the same spot year after year. Plants within the squash family (including pumpkins, melons, and cucumbers), the brassica family (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts), and the tomato family (including peppers, eggplants, and potatoes) should be rotated on at least a three-year basis. An easy schedule is to rotate the groups above while also alternating with greens (lettuce, mesclun) and legumes (beans and peas). Some gardeners also consider whether or not a plant is a heavy feeder, such as tomatoes, corn, and the brassicas; a light feeder, such as greens, root vegetables, bulbs, and herbs; or a legume, such as peas and beans, which are often used to follow the heavy feeders."
Heirloom Seeds : What are heirloom seeds?
"Heirloom seeds come from older varieties of vegetables, flowers, and herbs. These varieties are often ones that had been used for hundreds of years, and many were almost lost to the trade. But recent interest in the characteristics of varieties that ""grandma used to grow"" has brought these wonderful plants back into public demand. Sometimes they don't have the qualities that large-scale operations need, such as ripening all at once, disease resistance, or uniform appearance. But they have other appealing features, such as unique flavor, fragrance, color, shape, etc., that fell out of fashion or was lost in the development of newer varieties. Most heirlooms are open-pollinated, too, so you can save the seed from year to year. If you haven't tried some of the heirlooms, do so, and I'm sure you will be pleased!"
Cross Pollination of Squash and Gourds : "I have several varieties of squash in my garden. I also have several gourds growing on the fence around the garden. Will the gourds cross pollinate with the squash and cause problems? What is the minimum distance necessary to separate each variety?"
"Don't worry about separating these plants. The only concern is if you plan to save seed for planting next year. Cross pollination does not affect the current year's fruits--only the seeds. (This might be a concern if, say, you were planning to harvest pumpkin seeds for roasting.) However, if you compost the plants and some of the seeds sprout, you could have some strange gourd/squash mutants growing out of the compost pile! But there's no need to worry about this year's crop."
Growing Decorative Gourds : "I would like to plant gourds for craft projects. Can you give me some of the basics, such as how to prepare the soil, what time of year to plant, and what varieties are best suited for this purpose?"
"Gourds are both fun and practical to grow. Gourds are divided into two categories -- hard-shelled and thin-shelled varieties. Hard-shelled fruits are produced by white-flowered plants (Lagenaria siceraria). Thin-shelled gourds are produced by yellow-flowered Cucurbita pepo cultivars. Provide a deeply worked, well drained soil to which you've added one heaping shovelful of compost per plant. Large gourds can take up to 140 days to mature. You may have to start the seeds indoors so they're ready to plant when the weather warms. Direct seed the smaller types. Place about 5 seeds in each hill and thin to one strong plant. Gourds will flatten on the side in contact with the ground; avoid this by training the plants up a fence or trellis. To harvest, let the gourds ripen on the vine until the stems turn brown. Then allow them to dry fully on a rack with good air circulation. You can wax, varnish, or shellac them when they're completely dry."
Planting Corn : “What is the best way to plant corn?”
"Corn requires full sun and a rich loam soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.8. It's hard to say exactly what you should do to prepare your soil, since I don't know its present state, but generally it's a good idea to add organic matter -- compost, well-rotted manure, etc. Generally, backyard-grown sweet corn seed is planted about 4 inches apart in the row, with rows from 24 to 36 inches apart. Plant 4 to 6 rows in a block rather than a couple of long rows for good pollination and kernel formation. Since corn is wind pollinated, the block planting ensures that the pollen will drift down on to receptive silks instead of out of the garden. Some gardeners thin corn seedlings to about 8 inches apart, but I've always had good luck keeping them at the original 4 to 6 inch spacing. Corn is a heavy feeder. Even if you have rich soil, and have worked in compost or manure, you still may want to fertilize during the growing season. Some growers spread superphosphate before tilling. Plant to fertilize when the plants are about 6 inches tall with a fertilizer containing nitrogen, and then feed again every week or two until you see the silks forming. You can use an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion, or a balanced commercial fertilizer. Water the soil well before applying any dry or granulated fertilizer, and then water it in."
Tomatoes in Shade : “Are there any varieties of tomato that will grow in a shady area?”
"There really isn't a shade tolerant variety of tomato. All tomatoes will produce their best crop in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). You will find, however, that the small-fruited or cherry types tend to set a little better when light levels are less than ideal. Perhaps you could plant your tomatoes in containers, and place them in the sunniest spot you have!"
Removing Suckers on Tomato Plants : “I'm getting ready to stake my tomato plants. Should I remove the suckers?”
"Suckering is the process of removing the side shoots that grow from the node where a leaf attaches to the tomato vine. Removing the suckers encourages earlier, larger tomatoes, and it keeps the number of fruits low in relation to foliage, which improves the flavor of the fruits. There are many different techniques. One method is to allow three suckers to develop into strong stems. Then keep pinching new suckers that form to encourage the plant to put its energy into fruit production."
Fall-Sown Greens : "Is it possible to direct seed vegetable crops like kale, spinach and turnips in the fall, in the hopes of getting an early spring crop? I live in Ohio."
"You can sow them in late summer and early fall for a mid to late fall harvest, but the severity of your winter will determine if the plants survive until spring. In regions with mild winters, seeds of these crops sown in fall will sprout and grow slowly through the winter; then the plants will take off as the weather warms, resulting in early spring harvests. However, in Ohio, I'm afraid the winters would be too severe for consistent results. One option is to use a cold frame, to extend your growing season well into fall, and get an early start next spring. Some seeds, especially that of perennials adapted to cold regions, do best when sown in fall, because this gives the seed the chilling period they require before they will break dormancy and sprout in the spring. But I don't think the veggies you list fall into this category."
Reclaiming Overgrown Garden : "I have a vegetable garden spot of about 50 ft x 75 ft that I have not used for two years. It is overgrown with weeds. It is especially overcome with comfrey, a tubular root herb. I would like some advice on reclaiming the garden for vegetables. If I just pull the weeds and rototill, I am afraid I will just cut up the tubular root of the comfrey and have a worse mess than before. But perhaps that is my only alternative. Last year I even tried ""RoundUp"" on the weeds. Something I really prefer not to do, but it only made a dent in the problem. Any advice you can give will be appreciated."
"You are right, comfrey is an invasive plant and difficult to eradicate once it takes hold. You will need to try a combination of methods, a few times, to get it under control. If at all possible, dig up the roots so you can get all of the root system, as opposed to breaking it up with a tiller. You may need to dig to a depth of 12 inches or so. If spading is difficult for you physically, perhaps you could hire a high-schooler to help? As soon as you see any of the stuff sprouting, dig it out. Round-Up's main ingredient is called glyphosate. Glyphosate is a systemic. This means when it is sprayed on a plant, the plant absorbs and distributes it throughout its system. Eventually, it kills the entire plant, including the roots. However, it needs to be applied when the plant is actively growing, and for tenacious weeds, it may need to be applied again. Follow product instructions exactly with any herbicide. The spray can drift to other plants, particularly if there is any breeze. Spray in the morning when air is usually calmest and cover any nearby plants. Another solution is to dab the hard-to-control weeds with glyphosate in a wick applicator (VERY low chemical use that way), which is preferable in a food-producing garden. Soil solarization is another possibility, but I don't know if it will work with comfrey roots. Basically, you are heating up the soil to ""cook"" pathogens and weed seeds. You need to solarize during the hottest part of the summer, for up to 3 months. To solarize, smooth out the area (removing sod, plant debris and rocks), moisten the soil, lay a 4 mm to 6 mm thick sheet of clear plastic over bare soil, and seal the edges of the plastic with rocks or soil. This will naturally heat up to over 140 degrees F, which kills most pathogenic organisms and weed seeds in the top 4-8"" of the soil, depending on soil type and temperatures. I'm sorry there isn't any easy ""cure."" As a tip for the future, if you want to grow something that can be invasive (mint, for example), sink a 5-gallon container into the ground, which will contain the root system."
Plants For Beginner Gardeners : “What can I plant with my 5-year-old that is easy to grow and low-maintenance?”
"Choose things that are quick to germinate and grow or that have sensory delights for children. Radishes germinate easily, mature quickly (about 20 to 25 days), and kids seem to love to pull them out of the ground. There's an 'Easter Egg' blend with round radishes in an assortment of colors. Sweet peas are extremely fragrant and pretty. (Soak the seeds in water overnight for easier germination.) Sunflowers and hollyhocks are magical. You might want to use some transplants also. Try bedding plants such as lamb's ears (which are soft and wooly), pansies, and Johnny jump-ups (their little faces are fun). Chocolate mint is an easy-to-grow herb. In fact, all mints are so easy to grow and invasive that they are best planted in containers submerged in the garden (unless you want them to take over). Marigolds and cherry tomatoes are other good choices.”
Growing Carrots : "My carrots grew well, but they are not particularly sweet and are thickly covered with root 'hairs'.What is causing this? Do you have any pointers for growing carrots?"
"Carrots need a stone-free, deeply worked soil that drains well. During early stages of growth, the carrot's taproot must meet no resistance in the soil. If a root meets a rock or hard clay, it will branch or simply stop growing. Carrots produce best in a raised bed. Till the soil to a depth of at least 8 inches, adding plenty of compost but no manure unless it is well rotted. Excess nitrogen causes branching and hairy, fiberous roots. Potassium promotes solid, sweet carrots. Carrots are cool-weather vegetables, so start sowing about two weeks before the last expected frost in your area. Make successive plantings every three weeks until July. Furrows should be about 3/4 inch deep and 4 inches apart. One planting method is to place a half-inch layer of sifted peat moss in the bottom of each furrow, sow the seeds sparingly on top, then cover with about a quarter inch of peat moss. To help germination, cover the beds with burlap bags kept soaking wet until the carrots sprout. Remove the bags and water the beds daily until the seedlings are well established. Mulch with clean straw. The first few weeks after sowing determine the size of your crop. Carrots can't tolerate a deep planting in a dry bed, so the trick is to offer them a shallow sowing with even moisture. The seedlings grow slowly and can't compete with weeds. Hand weeding is recommended until the carrots are 2 inches tall. Thin the carrots to 3 inches apart then mulch with chopped leaves, pine needles, and compost to keep the weeds at bay. Mulching also helps the soil retain moisture and prevents ""green shoulder,"" which is caused by exposing the crowns of the carrots to the sun, making the roots bitter. Most carrots can be harvested in less than three months. The largest carrots will have the darkest, greenest tops, but don't leave the roots in the ground too long or they will be tough. Most are at their prime when about an inch in diameter at the crown. When harvesting, drench the bed with water first, making the carrots easier to pull. When you find a carrot large enough, grasp the greens at the crown and tug gently with a twisting motion. If the greens snap off, carefully lift the roots with a spading fork. Use damaged roots right away and store unblemished ones."
Determinate and Indeterminate Tomatoes : "What is the meaning of the words "determinate" and "indeterminate"" as used to describe tomato plants?"
“Determinate plants set a crop of tomatoes and then stop growing and producing flowers and fruit. This is very useful if you can your tomatoes because all the fruit ripen within a short period. Indeterminate plants will keep growing and producing as long as growing conditions are favorable.”
Sprinklers or Drip in the Vegetable Garden : "Is it okay to use overhead sprinklers in a vegetable garden? I've seen hundreds of farms using gigantic sprinkler systems to water their crops, so I assume it's a sound practice."
"You can water most plants with overhead sprinklers, and farmers often have no other choice. But drip watering is the better choice. The main concern with overhead watering is disease. Splashing water or wet leaves are what many plant diseases need to spread. Sprinkling is also wasteful, since so much water is lost to evaporation. Drip watering systems deliver water exactly where it's needed: the soil at the base of the plant. The water is applied slowly and is able to soak in. Leaves stay dry, limiting disease problems."
Getting the Heat out of Jalapeno Peppers : "We purchased seeds for 'mild' jalapeno peppers. The plants are producing nicely, but the peppers are very hot. What can we do to reduce the heat when we want to use them for salsa? Would boiling them or roasting them on the grill help?"
"Mild jalapeno varieties vary in their heat levels and in their tendency to occasionally produce hotter fruit. Anything that stresses the plant will cause a mild jalapeno to produce hotter fruit. Keep them growing vigorously from seed to harvest and you will have the mildest fruit the variety can give you. A very good way to reduce heat in a harvested pepper is to remove the inner seed walls. When you slice a pepper open you will notice some white membranes extending into the fruit interior. These are where the seeds are attached and where the substance that gives peppers their heat, capsaicin, is concentrated. Remove these membranes and the seeds and you will have a greatly reduced amount of heat. Boiling or roasting will not do the trick."
Edible Flowers : "Can you give me a list of edible flowers, what parts of the plant are edible (and what parts to avoid), and any other tips?"
"First of all, do not eat flowers if you have asthma, allergies, or hay fever. And eat only those that have been grown organically and have no pesticide residue. Collect flowers for eating in the cooler parts of the day--preferably early morning after the dew has evaporated. Choose flowers that are at their peak, avoiding those that are not fully open or are starting to wilt. Immediately before using, wash the flowers, checking for bugs and dirt. Remove the stamens and styles from flowers before eating--the pollen can detract from the flavor and some people are allergic to it. As far as what parts to on which flowers: You can eat the entire flowers of johnny-jump-up, violet, runner bean, honeysuckle, and clover. Remove the sepals of all flowers except violas, Johnny-jump-ups, and pansies. Eat only the petals of rose, calendula, tulip, chrysanthemum, yucca, and lavender. Roses, dianthus, English daisies, Signet marigolds, and chrysanthemums have a bitter white portion at the base of the petal where it was attached to the flower; remove this portion before using. Dandelion leaves are delicious in salads or cooked as a green. The flowers are edible when young; they become bitter with age. Remove dandelions' sepals--they are bitter. You can also eat both the flowers and the leaves of nasturtiums."
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Vegetables FAQs
